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Indian culture is popular for its diverse traditions and rich heritage, which can be seen in the various types of jewelry the nation produces. One of the most popular types of Indian jewelry uses pearls. Western coats of pearls hardly match the Indian traditional spaces' coat of pearls.
South India, especially the city of Hyderabad, has been known to produce some of the best pearlesque jewelry in the country for centuries. This is because the city is and has been home to many pearl merchants since the 16th century.
Indian pearls are unique as they are classified into several types based on their origin, size, shape, color, and luster.
Natural Pearls
Natural pearls are rare types of pearls, as most pearls used today are cultured pearls. Natural pearls are formed when an irritant such as sand enters an oyster's shell. To protect itself from the irritant, the oyster coats it with nacre, which over time hardens and forms a pearl. Because of the long process and rarity of the pearls, they tend to be expensive.
Saltwater Pearls
Saltwater pearls are formed in oysters found in the ocean, such as the South Sea or Tahitian. They tend to be larger than freshwater pearls, ranging from 8 to 20 mm. They also feature unique colors like gold, silver and black. These pearls are prestigious owing to how much they cost since they are rare and hard to find.
Freshwater Pearls
Freshwater pearls are formed in mussels found in rivers and lakes. They are more common than saltwater pearls, therefore, easier to find. They also tend to be more affordable than saltwater pearls. They come in a variety of colors and shapes, but they usually are white or pink.
Cultured Pearls
Cultured pearls are made by inserting a bead or piece of tissue into an oyster or mussel to produce a pearl. Because most pearls sold today are cultured, buyers have to understand the different types of cultured pearls available to them. The four main cultured pearls are Akoya, South Sea, Tahitian, and freshwater cultured pearls, which come in different colors, shapes, and sizes.
Biwa Pearls
Biwa pearls, which are also called lake pearls, originate from Lake Biwa in Japan. Biwa pearls are unique and different from other cultured pearls because they are formed from the tissue of mussels, not a bead. They come in various shapes, colors, and sizes but are primarily white with pastel hues. Biwa pearls are renowned for their unmatched quality and were once expensive before the production of cheaper alternatives.
Indian pearls are one of the most versatile owing to the different designs that Indian jewelers are able to come up with and create. The ornate and detailed designs of Indian pearl jewelry are in most cases a reflection of the historical influence and the culture of the country.
Traditional Indian Jewelry Designs
Traditional Indian pearl jewelry designs, such as pearl necklaces, may include a variety of other motifs. These motifs may include floral patterns, leaves, and geometric shapes. These motifs are in most cases known to draw inspiration from Indo-Islamic or Indian architecture or art.
Admiringly Detailed Work
Indian pearl jewelry is traditionally designed with painstaking detailed work, especially when using other valuable metals like gold and silver. Indian pearl jewelry is also designed with precious gemstones such as emeralds, rubies, and diamonds to create an exquisite and outstanding piece of jewelry.
Jhumka Earrings
Jhumkas are traditional Indian earrings that have a bell-shaped drop and are popular in Indian pearl jewelry designs. As the earring is donned, it features dangling pearls or beadwork at the bottom of the earring. This variation of pearl earrings is popular among Indian pearl jewelry's ethnic and contemporary fusion designs.
Maang Tikka
Just like the other pieces of jewelry, maang tikkas also come with pearl variants. Maang tikkas are headpieces worn during weddings and other celebratory events. They consist of a central pendant or ornament attached to a chain that goes behind the parting of a woman’s hair. There is a pendant that features a pearl or a group of pearls hanging from it. This pearl pendant is the focal point of the maang tikka.
String of Pearls Necklaces
These pearls are designed in the most simple way. The string is made of matching pearls, which gives it a very elegant look. It is a classic piece that all pearl lovers should have in their collection. Its simplicity allows for great versatility, allowing one to easily wear the necklace on a casual day while still looking professional or on a more fancy day event.
There are so many pearls available on this Indian market in particular. To choose quality Indian pearls, one must understand a few key factors.
The type of pearl
Buyers need to know which kind of pearl suits their needs best. Indian pearls are mostly of four types: natural, cultured, freshwater, and saltwater pearls. Each type has its own specific qualities. Freshwater pearls are affordable and relatively easier to find compared to saltwater pearls.
Akoya Pearls
Akoya pearls originally came from Japan and China, but now most of the Akoya pearls sold by merchants come from China. The pearls are well-known for their high luster and round shape. They are generally smaller in size, around 2-10 mm, and come in various colors. Their most popular color, however, is white or cream with silver undertones.
South Sea Pearls
South Sea pearls are usually sourced from oysters found in the waters of the Indian Ocean and Australian sea. The pearls are well-known for their great size, ranging from 9-20 mm. They are also popular for their luxurious gold and silver color and why they are regarded as some of the rarest and most luxurious pearls on the market.
Tahitian Pearls
Tahitian pearls mainly come from black-lipped oysters found around the French Polynesia region. The pearls are widely known for their unusual colors, which may be green, blue, or black. They are also large in size, usually around 8-14 mm.
Necklace Lengths
The length of a pearl necklace or string varies greatly. Different styles or occasions call for various necklace lengths. For instance, a choker pearl necklace is 14 to 16 inches long and sits well as a tight fit around a woman’s neck. An opera pearl necklace is longer, around 26 to 36 inches, and can be worn in loops or one hanging down.
Necklace Clasps
The clasp is the most integral part of a pearl necklace since it helps secure the necklace around a person’s neck. The difference is the different clasps used, with some being more complicated than others. A fishhook clasp offers a more secure and simpler design to ensure the necklace stays on during use. A box clasp is designed with an embedded hinge that is more secure yet easy to use.
Cultural Significance
Indian pearls have a strong cultural significance to the Indian people as they have been used in Indian jewelry for centuries. The city of Hyderabad is widely known as the City of Pearls because of its long association with the pearl trade, which pearl lovers believe contributes to the high quality of pearls in India.
Quality and Craftsmanship
Indian artisans are very skilled at making pearl jewelry. They use quality materials and pay attention to details to give their products a luxe feel. Pearls from India are well regarded around the world for their exceptional quality and craftsmanship, especially the string of pearls jewelry, which is one of the most popular pearl jewelry items in the country.
A Variety of Designs
Pearls from Indian markets vary widely in design due to the country’s many religious and ethnic groups and the climate of the country. For instance, pearl jewelry in Western India is heavily influenced by the Mughals, while South Indian designs are influenced by Dravidian and Hindu culture. As a consequence, this leads to jewelry featuring unique designs, for example, Jhumkas or maang tikkas.
Affordability
Compared to the quality and luxe feel they offer, Indian pearls are relatively cheaper. Owing to the large-scale production of cultured pearls, Indian pearls can be more economical than other global sources. In simple words, Indian pearl jewelry is of good quality and does not cost a lot, thus making it accessible to pearl lovers.
Personal and Special Gift
Pearl jewelry makes a good gift for a loved one in the form of necklaces, earrings, or bracelets. Pearls convey love and loyalty; gifting a pearl precious metal product to someone symbolizes unity and affection. In addition, Indian pearl jewelry looks unique and one-of-a-kind to the wearer, making it a special and personal gift.
The city of Hyderabad is well-known for producing Indian pearls. The City of Pearls' longstanding connection with the pearl trade is thought to give rise to pearls of superior quality. Indian craftsmen are incredibly skilled at making pearl jewelry. They pay close attention to detail, which gives the product a high-end look. The scale of production also contributes to the quality and ensures Indian pearls are relatively affordable compared to other global sources.
Real pearls have a cool touch, while imitation pearls tend to be warmer. When rolled between the fingers, real pearls feel slightly gritty, but imitation ones feel smooth. Natural pearls are rarely perfectly round. They may have slight shape variations. Imitation pearls are often manufactured in perfectly round shapes. A real pearl will leave a mark on an unglazed porcelain plate when rubbed against it. In contrast, imitation pearls will not leave any mark. Real pearls tend to have natural blemishes or inclusions. On the other hand, imitation pearls have a flawless finish.
Pearls symbolically represent wisdom and purity and are therefore commonly worn for personal adornment. Indian pearl jewelry is often worn during traditional and modern ceremonies. During wedding ceremonies, Indian brides commonly wear pearl jewelry, meaning they hold a significant role in wedding events. Indian pearl jewelry is a classic and timeless piece that can be worn on multiple occasions, whether casual or formal, making it popular for the everyday style of people.
